An account of eight days walking a very specific section of the Nakasendō, an ancient trade route that now mostly serves romantic tourists like me. Such romantic tourists will tell you that the route roughly follows the Kiso River along the valley of the Kiso mountains. The less romantic will point out that it largely follows, criss-crosses and for short stretches even becomes National Route 19. Oh and the Chuo commuter train line runs alongside it most of the way too.

My journey will take me north-east from Ena to Seba. Did I choose these endpoints because they are the easiest place names to pronounce, write and remember? Maybe. Regardless, I will be walking the full 120km between them come rain or shine.

My level of Japanese is practically zero, but what little I know intend to use on any and everyone within earshot.